Trip to Ireland – Part 3: Discovering Ancient Sites in the Boyne Valley

Fourknocks

On our second day, we had booked a private tour with Anthony Murphy, who took us to two lesser-known but powerful sites: Fourknocks and Dowth.

Fourknocks is tucked away in the countryside. To enter the tomb, you need a key, which Anthony had arranged from a nearby house. That alone made the visit feel special. There were no other visitors, no information signs, just us and this silent place. The monument has a later-added roof to protect it, covered with grass on the outside and the carvings inside are in exceptionally good condition.

What struck me most was the atmosphere. Quiet, protected, timeless. This felt like how the site was meant to be.

Dowth

Dowth had a very different energy. The sunlight had just broken through when we arrived, and the views were incredible. Again, we were almost the only ones there, just the three of us and the land.

Anthony explained how the mound was originally much higher, but damaged during early excavations in the 1840s. There are several mysterious entrances, and a beautiful tree grows along one of the slopes, giving the whole site a unique character.

At the foot of the hill lies a stone carved with the seven suns, an unusual carving that reminds me of the constellation of the seven sisters and only becomes visible with the right light. You could walk right past it otherwise. Anthony happened to be wearing a necklace with a large triskelion, and that sparked a conversation about the symbolism behind the clothes I was wearing that day.

Knowth

The day after our tour, we visited the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre, from where you take a scheduled bus tour to Knowth and Newgrange. It’s the only way to access those sites.

The contrast with the day before couldn’t have been bigger. From a quiet mound in a farmer’s field with a local key, to a modern visitor experience with entry fees, video projections, a restaurant and tight time slots. From this centre you take the bus to Knowth with a guide, then move on to Newgrange. Luckily, we had a lovely bus driver who turned out to be an artist as well.

The difference in restoration is also striking. While Fourknocks and Dowth still feel raw and original, Knowth and Newgrange feel almost new. That changes the energy, I think. It feels less ancient, more polished.

Still, Knowth is impressive. A large central mound surrounded by smaller ones, all with green grass rooftops. It almost felt like stepping into a hobbit village from Lord of the Rings. You can climb the main mound and look out over the landscape - a beautiful view, but I kept wondering how accurate the restoration really was.

Newgrange

Newgrange monument was the reason I had wanted to come here in the first place. I had already spotted it from the landscape - the restored white quartz wall is hard to miss. It’s striking, but also a little too perfect for my taste. Still, it’s huge and undeniably powerful.

In front of the entrance lies the enormous stone with the trispiral that matched my t-shirt. But inside, the space is surprisingly narrow and dark. Because of my light claustrophobia, I was allowed to walk at the back of the group. Once inside, the guide turned off the light — and a tiny beam of sunlight entered the chamber. During the winter solstice, the real sunlight falls directly into the tomb for just a few moments. That must be extraordinary to witness.

Loughcrew

Thanks to a tip from our Airbnb host, we also visited the neolithic complex of Loughcrew, a bit further out. I’m so glad we did.

Loughcrew consists of four hills scattered with ancient cairns. We climbed Cairn T on Carnbane East, once called Hag’s Carn or Sliabh na Caillaigh. The names refer to a local legend about a witch who tried to jump from hill to hill with an apron full of stones. Each time she landed, some stones fell and formed the cairns. On the last jump, she fell and broke her neck — a slightly tragic end after all that effort. You can read the full story on Anthony’s website.

The walk up the hill was already worth it: with wide views, rabbits hopping by, and sheep grazing everywhere. The monuments at the top felt less restored, more chaotic and somehow more powerful.

The Hag’s Chair, shown in a photo where Willem places his hand on it, is a mysterious stone with little known about its original purpose. Here, there were no time limits, no guides, no pressure. We could sit with the stones, take in the symbols, and quietly experience the energy of the place.

Closing thoughts

There are many other historical sites in the Boyne Valley; churches, castles, graveyards, and traces of St. Patrick’s life. Most are part of the land, overgrown with grass, moss and trees. They blend into the surrounding landscape. Only Newgrange stands apart, with its white wall and museum-like setting.

What stayed with me most: these are not just monuments in Ireland; it feels like Ireland itself is the monument. A place you should experience at least once in your life.

In the next blog, I’ll share how I got inspired by the Irish monuments and landscapes to create new drawings and paintings. You can also read about the Hill of Tara in part 2, and our lovely accomodation in part 1.